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The Best Method for Repotting Orchids

Many gardeners don’t even try repotting orchids because, while it really isn’t that hard to do, it is not the same as repotting other types of plants that they are familiar with. This is exactly what you don’t want to do as this step is vital to orchid care. An orchid that is allowed to remain in the same pot too long will flower poorly and may even die.

Unless there is some kind of emergency, you should consider repotting orchids when they’ve started showing new growth, but before their roots have started elongating.

The best kind of potting medium is the commercially prepared mix that’s made from medium sized chunks of fir tree bark. If your orchid is the kind that lacks pseudo bulbs, such as a moth orchid (Phalaenopsis) or a slipper orchid (Paphiopedilum), you may repot at any time, although it is best to do so when the plant is not in flower.

1.UPUTTING THE ORCHID.

Prepare your work area by spreading out several sheets of newspaper-repotting orchids can be messy. Turn the plant upside down over the paper and thump the sides and bottom of the pot to dislodge it. Getting the orchid out of the pot is sometimes a challenge because the roots often stick to the pot. If this occurs you can use a kitchen knife that is clean to remove them from the pot . Don’t worry, you won’t damage the plant if you accidentally damage the old roots.

Once you’ve gotten your plant free, you can pry apart its roots and shake out as much of its old potting mixture as you can. Don’t worry if some of the old potting mix sticks to the roots.

2.PREPARE FOR REPOTTING.

You’ll want to trim their roots up. Use a heavy scissors or small shears, and have a sharp knife on hand. To avoid the spread of viruses that can affect your plants, you should use a cloth with rubbing alcohol to sterilize your tools.

Cut away all injured and dead roots Dead roots are easy to spot because they’ll be mushy and light brown. Roots that are healthy will be firm and white, and have tips that are light-green in color. You can also cut off any pseudo bulbs that have no leaves at this point. If you see more than one lead, or new growth, you can even split the plant by cutting through its rhizome. Each division should contain a minimum of one new growth and three pseudo bulbs.

3.REPOT THE ORCHID

Pick a pot that will have plenty of room for new growth – about two year’s worth – based on how much your plant has grown in the time you’ve had it. If you are using an old orchid pot, wash it thoroughly and soak it in a 10 percent solution of chlorine bleach for 30 minutes, then rinse it well. Clay pots should be able to air out within a few days. If you intend on using a new pot that’s made of clay, soak it in water for a few minutes before you get started.

It is critical to cover the inside bottom of the pot with an ample amount of broken crocks or peanuts made out of plastic foam because orchids must have good drainage. Wet your potting mix with boiling water, give it time to cool, then let it dry a bit before using it. Also place the pseudo bulbs that are older along one side of the division in order to allow the new growth sufficient room to spread out. You’ll then compact the moistened bark mixture completely encircling the roots, pressing down firmly with your thumbs during the process. The top of the rhizome should be at the same level as the top layer of bark.

4.THE AFTERCARE

To keep the plant upright while its new root system is getting established, stake it securely with a loop of twine or use a “rhizome clip,” a simple device that attaches to the side of the pot.

Put the orchid plant in a lightly shaded location and mist both the plant and the surface of the bark twice daily until new root growth is evident. Once the roots have penetrated the bark, move the plant into brighter light and resume normal watering and fertilizing.

Repotting orchids will become second nature with a little bit of practice.

For more information on repotting orchids read this article by Nancy Molins “Repotting Orchids: A Step By Step Guide”

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